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Harry’s Bar Venice: A History

May 28, 2017 by Barbara 3 Comments

Too many years ago, I published an article about the history of Harry’s Bar Venice, one of the most iconic landmarks in Italy.  I told my story through the eyes of Ruggero Caumo, who had worked at Harry’s for more than four decades, most of them as head barman. Ruggero was a charming and lovely man whom I met one day while he was mixing my martini.  I interviewed him on his day off while he was getting a haircut.   We spoke mostly in Italian, at his request. As he felt more comfortable, we switched to English. He had not yet retired from Harry’s and he was in an expansive mood. I was delighted.  After the original article was published, Ruggero wrote me  saying that many tourists had visited Harry’s Bar all summer long with clipped-out copies of the article asking him to autograph it. Naturally, he obliged.   I hope you enjoy his story:

 “This is a place where everybody in the world stops once in his life,” says Ruggero Caumo, head barman of Harry’s Bar in Venice, Italy — the world’s most famous watering hole.

Ruggero ought to know. He has been tending bar there since 1946.

“I don’t need to go away to see the world,” he says. “The world passes through here.”

No one can argue with him. No trip to Venice is complete without a visit to Harry’s Bar, the always-crowded-to-capacity original from which all others are pale imitations.

From his vantage point, behind the tiny, intimate bar, Ruggero has spent the last several decades watching the human parade pass through. And what a parade.

He has mixed thousands of drinks for Harry’s legendary clientele – writers, film stars, tycoons, royalty, and assorted bon vivants—a list headed by novelist Ernest Hemingway, the man who put Harry’s Bar on the map.

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Filed Under: Travel Italia Tagged With: Bellini, Cipriani, harry's bar, Harry's Bar Venice, Hemingway, martini, venice

Hungry Florentine Horse

November 18, 2015 by Barbara Leave a Comment

image

Looks like he’s eating paglia e fieno.

Filed Under: Travel Italia

Giolitti For Gelato in Rome

October 31, 2015 by Barbara Leave a Comment

 

Go to gelateria Giolitti for the best ice cream in Rome.  Been there for over 100 years, a bit pricey but located right in the historic center of Rome and worth the wait to get yours.

Many visitors come to Rome on a pilgrimage to two places: the Vatican and Giolitti, the city’s famous ice cream palace.  And frankly I’m not sure which holy shrine they visit first.

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Filed Under: Travel Italia Tagged With: gelato, Giolitti, ice cream, Italian desserts, Italian ice cream, Roman ice cream

10 Mistakes Tourists Make in Italy (Oh My)

June 12, 2015 by Barbara Leave a Comment

Definition of a Tourist [too r-ist], noun: a temporary second class citizen in someone else’s country.

During my first trip to Italy back in the first Ice Age, I noticed the Italians doing something a certain way.  I don’t even remember what it was that caught my attention.  But when I asked my Italian tour guide why the Italians had this certain custom, he shrugged and said “Is the way.”  And it still, in a lot of ways, “is the way.”

But truthfully, it’s not easy being a tourist in any country.  No matter how smart or how educated we think we are, we all do a certain amount of bumbling around when we’re tourists abroad.  I realize nobody likes to be told what to do or how to behave, but here are a few things I’ve seen tourists do, or even things I’ve done myself that, if we knew better, would make us better visitors to Italy.  I will call them The Ten Little Boo-boos.

It's not easy being a tourist in Italy.

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Filed Under: Travel Italia Tagged With: italy, tourists in Italy, tourists mistakes, travel Italy

Don’t Miss The Monthly Arezzo Antique/Flea Market

May 10, 2015 by Barbara Leave a Comment

 

Tatiana's jewelry table at the Arezzo Antique/Flea Market.

Meet Tatiana, one of the more than 500 vendors who travel from all over Italy to sell their wares at the Arezzo Antique/Flea Market.  The market is held in the vast Piazza Grande and countless side streets the first Sunday of every month and the Saturday before.  Except for September, when Arezzo hosts the yearly jousting match.  If you don’t know Arezzo here’s the lowdown: it’s about 50 miles southeast of Florence, the seat of its own Tuscan province.  There’s much medieval art to see in Arezzo, including Piero Della Francesco’s frescoes.  The town is beautiful.  It was the location for the Academy-award winning movie, “Life is Beautiful”.

On a future trip to Italy, try just once to visit the Arezzo Antique/Flea Market.  It makes many of those lists of the best flea markets in Europe.  There’s something for everyone here: artwork, furniture, pots, dishes, jewelry, bric-a-brac of all sorts, antique-whatevers, cloth, dolls, engravings, postcards.  All of it fascinating–and fun.

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Filed Under: Travel Italia Tagged With: Antique fair, Antiques, arezzo, Flea market

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Hi. I'm Barbara Francis and I hope you like authentic Italian food as much as I do. It's simple, fresh, seasonal. What's not to like? And it's part of my heritage. So join me in the kitchen of Italian Food Made Simple. Just step right over the dog, she won't move even if you ask her.

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